This is the set that I’m working on at the moment. The problem I’m having with several of the problems is that the final move or two moves at the tops require small dynos on my part due to my short stature and slightly negative ape index. I wouldn’t mind this if nature had done it, but nature didn’t. I like these problems to the points that I can reach on each of them. They’re good problems. I enjoy them, but I need to be able to finish sending them! I’m a fairly static climber, and dynos at the top of the wall aren’t really my thing, especially when there are volumes below to hit on the way down. If I break myself, I don’t want it to be in the climbing gym, if you know what I mean. There is an arête problem that I really want to send that I think I can figure out without a dyno to the top, but it’s going to be a very delicate balancing act, and there’s still the chance of falling on the volume below. That’s okay. That could happen on a real crag, so I’m going to keep my mouth shut about that one. A person who is 5’7″ could probably pull these problems off without dynos, but the upstairs wall is more for younger climbers (ie. probably shorter than that) and beginning climbers. I appreciate the difficulty of the grades that were set. That’s not the issue. The issue is my 5’2 1/2″-ness, rounded down to 5’2″ with my -1 ape index. Lilliputianism at its finest! Hahaha! I’m not making excuses using my height. I’m simply saying that short people need a place to train for the outdoors, too, and that should be taken into consideration by the setters. I dyno enough as it is!
CLIMBING 4 THE REST OF US 