I know, I know. Consistency. I’ll have to work on that. We haven’t had a good Sunday Sesh in a while…a little over a month, as a matter of fact. Today, we’re going to look at what AE, who has a +4 Ape Index, likes for climbing shoes. AE is a route setter and a darn good climber. His shoe of choice when redpointing a 5.13a is the La Sportiva Solution. He’s been through six or seven pairs of them, now. AE likes the Solutions because he says, “You don’t have to size down a lot, and there’s a lot of rubber on the toe.” AE wears size 13(M)US street shoes and the size equivalent of 11.5(M)US in La Sportiva Solutions (45.5EU). He just broke in a new pair earlier this year, and hasn’t climbed in them much yet, so he’ll be in them for a while!
Now, I mentioned AE’s “Ape Index”. What is that, some of you might be saying? Your “Ape Index” is your “wingspan” – measured across your back with your arms straight out to the sides, fingers straight, from the fingertip on one hand to the fingertip on the other – minus your height in the same measurement unit, usually inches. For example, my Ape Index is -1, meaning that my wingspan is one inch shorter than my height in inches. I’m at a disadvantage for reach, which is what it boils down to. So AE, having an Ape Index of +4, has a huge reach advantage over me! Five inches!!! See? You may have learned something new today. Go find your Ape Index!!!
CLIMBING 4 THE REST OF US 