With AJ’s help, I got back on the wall yesterday for the first time in over a week. I worked on Michelle’s purple 5.9 in the dihedral, which I dubbed “Purple Grapes”. I really like Michelle’s routes. They have a lot of footwork to them, which I really enjoy, and she is about my height, so I know the reaches are doable. She is more flexible than I am, so sometimes it’s a real stretch for me, but I know the reach is possible! I gave Purple Grapes four really committed attempts. The fifth was a flop because I just couldn’t get my fingers to hold on anymore and my toes hurt.
Why did my toes hurt? Because I dug out my La Sportiva Solutions and my tribal warrior shield chalk bag!!! I climb best in my Solutions. They fit my feet extremely well and I have climbed amazingly well in them. Hopefully the makeover they’re getting this year won’t affect how they fit!!! That would be horrible if it did! Anyway, I dug out my Solutions and, sure enough, I have to toughen up my toes again. They got soft on me while I was experimenting with other shoes, although I have to say that, for longer climbs and longer times between taking my climbing shoes off, the La Sportiva Otakis are a good choice. The Solutions are my powerhouse bouldering and sport-climbing shoes, though!!!
McKenzie and Taylor were at the climbing gym when AJ and I went last night, too! McKenzie always cheers me up and offers encouragement in a way that no one else can. Taylor sent a pink 5.12 route and that was awesome to see! He was run out above the last bolt about 10′ and just kept climbing to the top! AJ sent a variety of routes, none below 5.10, and worked on the purple 5.13 with Taylor belaying him. I needed some time with my shoes off!
I love my Solutions. I can edge and toe-in and smear and heel hook and toe hook and do everything I need to do in them. When I have them on, I know my feet are solid. I can put all the power through my big toe when I need to, which is nice. I just have to toughen up my feet again!!! I got back on the wall!!! Now I need to stay on the wall!!!