#climbtimeprimetime with AJ!!!

Yesterday afternoon and long into the evening, AJ and I climbed at the gym.  AJ was projecting on a 5.13c route, which I successfully belayed him for this time around, and I was attempting various routes, which was nice mixture of styles for me to build my endurance with, having made, in all, 11 top rope attempts.  AJ led most of them for me and set up the top rope, which is always so kind of him to do.  The first route that we worked on was what I’ve affectionately named, “Big Juggy Purple People Pleaser”, a 5.10b route composed entirely of big purple jugs and some outlying footholds.  It even looks fun!!!  I have yet to get back to my highest point ever on that route, but I always try it because I love the movement and it forces me to do some moves that I otherwise would not get the opportunity to work on.  Two attempts on that one.  Next was what I’ve named, “The Green Nose”, a 5.8+ route that has a large green nose volume and a gas mask higher up in the route.  It’s a fun-looking route, as well.  Two attempts on that one.  AJ led a 5.9 route in the dihedral that I named, “Dihedral Yellow Seuss”, which I attempted twice, getting about a third of the way up the wall with it.  I didn’t reach my highest point ever on that route, either, but I gave it a good effort!  Two attempts on that one.  I had a flash pump going that wouldn’t quit!!!  I couldn’t believe that my forearms were staying that pumped for that long!!!  It had been 45 minutes with some rests and belaying AJ in between climbs!  They were rock hard!!!  Finally, the pump went away once I started working on what I call the “Green Test Route”, a 5.9 that AJ set for the lead climb and belay certifications.  There is a high foot on that one that I just can’t manage, and it’s only by mere millimeters that I’m missing it!!!  I had Taylor and AJ help me come up with some different beta that wasn’t going to tear my shoulder out, too.  Two attempts on that one.  I belayed AJ on his purple 5.13c project – successfully – as he worked it.  I attempted the route that I named, “Red Dragon Wings” once while AJ was waiting for the lane to clear so that he could work his project and got the farthest up the route that I have ever gotten!!!  That felt good.  One attempt, for the time being, on that one.  AJ and Taylor worked the 5.13c for a bit and then I got on top rope to try a 5.10a black route that I call, “Black Pinch Mix”.  Even though I was only a few feet off the deck and I slid across the mat into Taylor on my butt while on belay by AJ when I fell, it was a serious attempt.  One attempt on that one.  Okay, one more attempt on “Red Dragon Wings”.  I didn’t get quite as far, but it felt good.  The whole session felt great!!!  AJ and Taylor worked on a few more things while I put my street shoes on and went to collect my stuff out of my locker.  My hands were wrecked, and my fingertips raw.  I had made 11 attempts between six different routes!!!  I think that’s a first for me at SteepWorld Climbing and Fitness!  I got my stuff out of my locker, washed my hands good, and put some lotion on them right away to preserve what was left of my skin.  I had already taken my harness off and I gathered my things together after logging my attempts on the MyClimb app.  AJ had a few “meetings” he needed to attend to – talks with some of the staff and bosses to establish his position on things and find out theirs concerning route setting at this new gym.  He had already talked to Scott.  He talked to Heath on the way out.  I went out and warmed the truck up while he talked to Mack and Heath.  Snow, more snow, was falling as I felt the heat slowly fill the cab.  AJ came out and let me know the status of things.  This morning, we are going to set a 5.10 route before the gym opens and we’re not setting tomorrow, New Year’s Day.  Sounds good!  Updates, as usual, pending…

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