Three routes in two hours

When AJ and I went in to set routes this morning at the climbing gym, we were both assuming that we’d be resetting an entire section of the wall.  That wasn’t the case.  Heath (owner, boss, and head route setter) pointed out the routes he wanted taken down and then specified the range within which he wanted the grades of the new bouldering problems to be.  Taylor was there, too.  We stripped the routes that Heath pointed out, then set new problems in their places.  AJ worked with me on a purple sloper-style V2, and Taylor set a red tufa-style V3 while Heath was gone after bolts, several sizes of which we had run out of.  Heath returned with the bolts, and then pointed out the adjustments to our routes that he wanted taken care of.  AJ quickly set an orange V3 during the last 20 minutes we had left before we had to leave – AJ for choir practice and I for my appointment with the Doc. Heath was working on a yellow route when we left and Taylor was working on a tan route at the other end of the wall.  Had we had the entire day, I would’ve set the problems in the lower grades while the other, more experienced setters set the higher grades.  I can set harder problems, but I can’t forerun them to see if they actually go.  For example, the V4’s and the V5 that I set at the old gym were fantastic, but I couldn’t climb them!  Others had to forerun them for me.  I try to set within the grades that I can actually climb so that I can at least forerun my own problems!  I have to say that setting in amongst existing problems is more difficult than setting while you’re resetting an entire section of the wall, but these are good skills to learn, too.

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